Repair or replace
A repair fixes one break. A replacement puts in a new pipe from the meter side to the house. The right choice depends on the condition of the pipe, not only on the leak in front of you.
Replacement is worth discussing when the pipe is old and corroded, when the line has leaked in more than one place, when the material is one that is being phased out, when the pressure is low even after the leak is fixed or when the cost of the dig is high enough that you would rather do it once. A single clean break in an otherwise sound pipe often justifies a spot repair.
Common pipe materials
Your line is made of one of a handful of materials. The provider can tell by looking at it where it enters the house or at the meter.
- Lead. Found in some older systems. Your water utility may keep an inventory and can tell you whether your line is lead. Ask them. Replacing a lead line is a topic to take seriously, and some programs help with the cost.
- Galvanized steel. Common in mid-century homes. It corrodes from the inside, which narrows the pipe and lowers pressure.
- Copper. Long-lived in many soils, but can develop pinholes or fail at joints, and some water or soil conditions are harder on it.
- Polyethylene or HDPE. A flexible plastic used widely for new service lines. It handles bends and some ground movement well.
- PEX and other plastics. Used in some places for service lines or the first part inside the house. Local codes decide what is allowed.
- PVC. Used in some regions for service lines, with fittings that suit it.
Which material suits your home depends on local code, the water, the soil and the provider's experience. Ask for the product name and for proof that it is rated for drinking water.
Open-trench replacement
The traditional method is an open trench. The crew cuts the surface, digs along the line, lays a new pipe on a prepared bed, connects it at both ends, tests it and backfills the trench. It is simple, it lets the crew see the old line, other utilities and the soil, and it handles bends, tie-ins and surprises well.
Its cost is the disruption. A trench through a lawn, a driveway or a sidewalk has to be restored. If the line runs under finished surfaces, ask for a price for trenchless methods too, which are covered on the page about trenchless water service line repair. Compare the finished result, not the pipe price.
Depth, cover and location
A service line is laid deep enough to protect it from damage and, in cold regions, from frost. The right depth, the allowed distance from sewer lines and other utilities and the type of bedding are set by local code and the utility. A provider who knows the area follows those rules and will talk to you about them.
If the new line can follow the old route, it may be the shortest and cheapest. If a new route is better, for example around a tree or a structure, the provider may recommend it. Ask where the new line will run and where it will connect.
The meter, the valve and the connection
A replacement connects at two ends. At the street end it ties into the utility's connection, and at the house end it ties into the home's plumbing, usually near a main shut-off valve and a pressure regulator if the house has one. The meter is generally the utility's equipment. The utility may need to set the meter again or approve the work on its side.
Ask the provider whether the job includes a new main shut-off valve at the house, a pressure regulator and a backflow device if your area requires one. Those parts protect the new line and the home, and they are easier to add while the line is open.
Permits, inspection and testing
Replacing a service line is normally permitted work. The permit is pulled by the licensed contractor, the work is inspected and the new line is pressure-tested and flushed. In some places the new line must also be disinfected before it is put into service. Keep the permit, the inspection sign-off and any test records. They matter when you sell the home.
Cost factors and how to compare quotes
This website does not publish prices. Providers set their own, and quotes should be in writing. The main cost factors are the length and depth of the line, the pipe material, the method, what has to be cut and restored on the surface, permit and utility fees and the connections at each end.
When you compare quotes, line them up by method, pipe type, length, what is included on the surface, who pulls the permit, who deals with the utility, how long the water is off and the warranty. A quote that is much lower than the rest may leave something out. Ask what.
Planning around the water shut-off
The water goes off while the old line is cut and the new one connected. Ask how long that should take, and plan for it. Fill a few containers for drinking and flushing, check that anyone in the house who depends on water for health reasons has a plan and ask whether the neighbors on the same line will be affected.
After the job, run the taps for a few minutes to clear air and debris, and clean the aerators if the water sputters. If the water stays discolored, tell the provider.
Replacement in Leesburg
Ask your water utility who owns each part of the line, and ask your homeowners association whether it needs notice of the work.
Who should be at home, and when
Tell everyone in the household when the water will be off, and decide who will be there to let the crew in and sign off on the work. If you rent, the owner or manager normally arranges the job, so ask who has the keys to the meter box and the house valve. If you are away, say so in advance and agree how the crew will reach the meter and the house, and how you will get photos of the finished work.
After the water is back, walk the route with the provider. Look at the surface, check the taps and the meter and ask any questions before the crew leaves.
Questions to ask about replacement
- Why replace the whole line and not repair a section?
- What will the new line be made of, and why?
- Will the old line be removed or left in the ground?
- Do you handle the permit, the inspection and the utility?
- How will you protect the lawn, plants and surfaces?
- Can I see the pipe and the connections before the trench is closed?
A provider who is confident in the work will usually be glad to show it. Ask for photos if you cannot be there.
Planning the work
If the job is not an emergency, schedule it for a time when you can be at home and when the weather is suitable. Ask the provider to confirm the date, the start time and the water shut-off window in writing. Move cars, outdoor furniture and anything else that blocks the route, and make sure the crew can reach the meter and the house valve.
Warranty and records
Ask what the warranty covers, for how long, and who honors it. Get it in writing, with the date, the scope of work and the pipe material. File it with the permit and the inspection record. If you later sell the house, a clear record of a new service line is a useful document for the buyer.
Frequently asked questions
Do I have to replace the whole line?
Not always. A single break in a sound pipe can be repaired. Replacement is worth it when the pipe is worn, has failed more than once or is a material you want to remove.
How do I find out if my line is lead?
Ask your water utility. Many keep records. A provider can also identify the material by looking at the pipe.
Who pays for the replacement?
It depends on who owns that part of the line. Ask your water utility, and ask whether any program helps with the cost.
How long does replacement take?
Many jobs take a day or two, longer with permits, inspections and surface restoration.
Will water pressure improve?
If the old pipe was narrowed by corrosion, a new line can improve pressure. Other causes of low pressure are separate.
Related pages
- Signs of a Failing Water Service Line
- Water Service Line Leak Detection
- Trenchless Water Service Line Repair
- Emergency Water Service Line Repair